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E36 guys, need help with aggressive rear fit

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  • E36 guys, need help with aggressive rear fit

    I'm having a lot of issues getting the rear to sit how I want it to and hoping others' experience can help me out.

    The goal is to run my 17x10et30 with a 12mm spacer (et18).

    In all of these pics, the front is at 17x10et15. Here is the rear with the et30:


    With et30, there is no rubbing. I wanted to make the rear fit more aggressive so I picked up 12mm spacers (et18). The problem, however, is that exiting my driveway and on big bumps, the wheel lip hits directly on the fender. I was only a few days out from Wekfest, so I decreased camber (so tire would hit fender first) and raised the car. Here is the result:



    The rear end, however, was MUCH too high for my liking. I really prefer a level car over even fender gaps.

    So I added camber arms and pretty much maxed them out, so that the wheel would tuck inside the fender. Sitting still it looks like it has plenty of clearance. The camber is too extreme for my liking, but I was just experimenting.




    However, when I went to leave my driveway, the wheel went inside the fender and locked up. Driving, it scraped lip/fender on even small bumps.


    Here's another example using a car with exact same specs. At this height/camber, I hit wheel lip on fender. (plus I think this is way too high)



    At this height/camber, my wheel scrapes and locks up inside fender.




    So, what am I doing wrong? Right now I have the spacers out, but want to put them back in. Do I do more fender work? (they are already nicely rolled and slightly pulled) Is there a magic number for camber?

    My fear is that nothing is going to work because my springs are to soft (BC 6k/8k), but I'm interested to see how others have dealt with this problem.

    Thanks!
    025garage


  • #2
    Your springs are too soft for one, but also if you plan on poking and not hitting your fenders, you will need larger bumpstops.

    The stiffer springs will allow you to drive a bit lower, but even with over 1000lb rates the wheel will still compress enough to hit. That's where the bumpstops come into play. You need to get them so that they hit right before the wheel comes into contact with the fender. It will ride like crap, but it's the only way to make it happen other then replacing your springs with solid metal.

    If you look close at all the cars with the poke you like, you'll notice that their fenders are fucked up too. There's nothing magic about it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks, Byron. I honestly hadn't considered bump stops in the equation. Seems like if I could space my current bump stops up a bit to limit travel right before lip hits inside fender, it could help.

      On your setup, does the lip tuck inside the wheel?
      025garage

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      • #4
        Yeah my offsets are horrible, I have no worries about ever hitting lol.

        I setup Josh's old e36 though, and even with 900lb rear springs it rubbed with 17x10 et20. That's nearly 3 times stiffer then your rear springs, and he was higher then your raised picture at first. We ended up going the camber and pull route rather then bumpstops, but it still rubbed a bit.

        Since you have BC's, try threading the shocks up till they're bottomed out on the bumpstops. You might not even need to space them up or get new ones.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Byron View Post
          Yeah my offsets are horrible, I have no worries about ever hitting lol.

          I setup Josh's old e36 though, and even with 900lb rear springs it rubbed with 17x10 et20. That's nearly 3 times stiffer then your rear springs, and he was higher then your raised picture at first. We ended up going the camber and pull route rather then bumpstops, but it still rubbed a bit.

          Since you have BC's, try threading the shocks up till they're bottomed out on the bumpstops. You might not even need to space them up or get new ones.
          I think I saw you at SoWo and, if so, I owe you a beer next time! I was so focused on camber/fenders, I totally forgot about my shock adjustment. They were adjusted all the way down, so I cranked them up about an inch. Hopefully that brings the bump stop into play enough to avoid full tuck. Also, went after the fenders with a hammer/dolly and made a little progress on pulling.
          025garage

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          • #6
            ooooooooh, now i get it. The drawback is massive droop I guess. I'd be scurred the springs would fly out...
            025garage

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by motocaddy View Post
              I think I saw you at SoWo and, if so, I owe you a beer next time! I was so focused on camber/fenders, I totally forgot about my shock adjustment. They were adjusted all the way down, so I cranked them up about an inch. Hopefully that brings the bump stop into play enough to avoid full tuck. Also, went after the fenders with a hammer/dolly and made a little progress on pulling.
              Haha it's no problem dude, I hope just adjusting the shocks works out for you.
              Originally posted by vgrntbeauxner View Post
              ooooooooh, now i get it. The drawback is massive droop I guess. I'd be scurred the springs would fly out...
              Yeah you would get more droop, but unless the car is in the air for a few seconds there's no possible chance of the springs falling out. They're inside a pocket in the control arm anyways, so even if the car was in the air the springs would need to come up out of the pocket first before falling out. It's a complete non-issue.

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              • #8
                so cool in looks and stance

                Comment


                • #9
                  how are you going about having bumpstops?
                  something like this:

                  in which case is this safe to do and will the bottom bolt of the shocker take that kinda of hard impact?
                  im using 500lb rear springs with a 17x10 et20 on a 215.40.17
                  or would it be better to use something mounted inside the spring perhaps so it hits the chassis?
                  im thinking of getting some polyuretane bar (30mm dia) in lengths i can cut down and bore out the centre to slide over my shocker.
                  any input guys?
                  Float like a Cadillac, Sting like a Beemer!
                  http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24326

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Buck6687 View Post
                    how are you going about having bumpstops?
                    something like this:

                    in which case is this safe to do and will the bottom bolt of the shocker take that kinda of hard impact?
                    im using 500lb rear springs with a 17x10 et20 on a 215.40.17
                    or would it be better to use something mounted inside the spring perhaps so it hits the chassis?
                    im thinking of getting some polyuretane bar (30mm dia) in lengths i can cut down and bore out the centre to slide over my shocker.
                    any input guys?
                    On mine, there was already a bump stop, so I just needed to lengthen the shock. Not all shocks have this adjustment though. Lengthening the shock about 1" worked perfect for me. The wheel still tucks, but only a tiny bit then stops. No more issues getting out of driveway and ride quality did not suffer much.

                    The ones in the link above look perfect. I would start with two on each side and see how it works for you.
                    025garage

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      perfect thanks for the detailed reply
                      Float like a Cadillac, Sting like a Beemer!
                      http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24326

                      Comment


                      • #12
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                        Ask the man his offsets and other shenanigans. Hes a homie of mine.

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