4 Link Solid Rear Axle..

[picky]

I dont know much about solid rear axles but my current car(base model mustang) has one

anyways, do 4 link solid rear axles need a pan-hard bar or watts link if im going to slam it? do you think i need to upgrade the lower rear control arms as well?

i would love to hear especially from the mini truck guys since the suspensions are almost similar to my car.

thanks!

[Daviticus]

You don't really NEED a panhard rod on a 'Stang. The chassis flexes long before the control arms will, and guaranteed a V6 isn't going to give you tube-twisting torque even off a standing rev-limiter drop.

One thing you'll notice as soon as you slam it, is that those upper links are going to want to pull the axle toward the front of the car. There are a grip of companies that make suspension components for these cars, but I'd suggest Maximum Motorsports, Hotchkiss, or QA-1 for adjustable bars out back. Once you get your wheels located properly front-to-rear in your wells, you can set the driveshaft/pinion angle and be done with it. Unless you frequently curb your whip, you aren't going to get any axle side-to-side movement.

My '79 Volvo 242DL has a 4-link with a panhard rod as well. Main difference between the two [except for the panhard obviously] is that all 4 of my longitudinal links are parallel to each other, where the Mustang has trapezoid-angled upper arms to keep the axle centered. You are correct that the design is very similar to what most low-rider and mini-truck guys are retrofitting. One thing I have to deal with by having the panhard rod, is axle centering. The lower I go, the further off to one side the axle goes, until the panhard is level with the ground. Keep going lower and it pulls the axle back the other direction. I'm probably just going to fab up an adjustable rod and use heim joints so I can bring the wheels and tires right to the very edge and not have to worry about axial deflection.

Hope some of that made sense haha. I've been studying too much suspension design, geometry, and theory lately.

[picky]

thanks thanks. ill re read it but i do understand some of it. kinda busy playing battlefield lol

and that axle side to side movement at high speed isnt fun either rather scary. oo well haha.

as far as parts goes im planning to run camber plates, bumpsteer kit, and of course coils all around.

right now its just sitting on eibach sportlines, gt rear sway, and a maximum motorsports struttowerbar.

[benz88]

If you dont want a Panard bar, Run a Triangulated 4link, the top link bars DO NOT pull your axle or center it in the wheel wells, Thats the bottom lower bars. Your top bars Adjust Pinion angle.

[Daviticus]

If you dont want a Panard bar, Run a Triangulated 4link, the top link bars DO NOT pull your axle or center it in the wheel wells, Thats the bottom lower bars. Your top bars Adjust Pinion angle.

Sorry, but in the case of the Mustang that is not true.



Mustangs have had that same suspension [hell chassis as a whole] design from 1979 to 2004. Note the extreme angle of the upper arms, and the minor angle of the lowers. That trapezoidal shape is what locates the axle side-to-side. Rather, it IS the triangulated 4-link you're suggesting he use.

Shortening the top arms will pull the top of the diff forward, causing the pinion angle to face downward; on the converse, adding length will push the diff top backward, causing pinion angle to face upward. Adjusting both top and bottom bars will locate the axle fore/aft in the wheel wells.

[benz88]

That's basically a factory 4 link, I Had that on my Lincoln, The lowers are really what locates the axle front to back in the wheel wells. The Uppers yah adjust pinion angles and keep it centered in the car.

[picky]

ah thanks guys again

now whats the ideal pinion angle?

[benz88]

You want it to be somewhat straight while the axle moves up and down.

[picky]

You want it to be somewhat straight while the axle moves up and down.

thanks thanks. now its just all planning now.